Roger Schäli

At home in the North Face

Roger Schäli is probably one of the most famous Swiss alpinists. In May 1999, the Sörenberg native climbed the north face of the Eiger for the first time via the Lauper Route. The spell of the wall had gripped him. His list of North Face ascents is long and impressive:

First free ascent of the John Harlin route with Heckmair exit, the Japanese and Piola-Ghlini Direttissima, first ascent of the currently most difficult Eiger route “Odyssey” as well as the spectacular sport climbing route “Magic Mushroom”, the long-awaited first repetition of the route “Metanoia” and in summer 2019 the redpoint ascent of the rock climbing route “La Vida es Silbar” in one day.

To this day, Roger Schäli has climbed the Eiger north face around 54 times. His love and fascination for the Eiger are clearly evident in his book “Passion Eiger”.

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